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(The Desert of Turkmen)
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Old Turkmensahra
01) Tax collector's of
Astrabat government. Salgyt ýygnamaya
gelen Astrabat hökümet wekilleri.
06)
10)
14)
18) HojaNepes 1919.
27) Igdir and
Ganyokmaz Turkmens. Igdyr we Ganyokmaz
Türkmenleri.
37) Turkmensahra
Turkmens who refuged to Turkmenistan. Türkmenistana
Sygynan Türkmensahraly Türkmenler.
41) Turkmen Prisoners
in Tehran (Mohammed Ali Shah's followers)
45) Ahmad Ahundov
Gurgenli. (1901-1943) Orientolojist. Gündogaržynas
New Turkmensahra
33- The
Turkmans of Iran belong to the Turkish speaking tribes. They have presently
settled down in the north eastern corner of Iran. The Turkmans of Iran
consist of four main tribes: the Yomut, the Guklan, the Nokhorli and the
Tekké. Social and cultural differences can be observed due to their
historical background and different means of subsistence, despite their great
similarities. 34- A Yomut shepherd with his flock,
Turkman Sahra near Inché Borun. The Yomut consist of two subtribes -
The Atabay and Jafarbay. Until the beginning of this century the tribe
was nomadic but now only a few of them migrate and within a limited a
rea. 35- A scene
from Turkman Sahra located south of the Atrak River. It is a slightly
hilly area, sloping gently towards the Caspian Sea. It's climate ranges
from moderate in winter to hot and dry in summer, which changes into a humid
Mediterranean type around the Caspian Sea. Yomut Turkman reside in this
area.
36-37 One
of the last of the large groups of camels living in the remote corners of
this land. Now only a reminder of the great migrations of the past when
they helped the cattle-raising Yomut tribes in their summer move towards the
cool Balkhan mountains in Russia and back to the warm plains of Gorgan in
winter. Korand village, by the Atrak River. 38- The
Turkman territories enjoy a variety of climate. Regions close to
Mazandaran province in the north of Iran have a moderate climate with green
hills, fields and thick forests, near Golli Daq. 39- Autumn
rain in Jargalan.
40- A Yomut
hunter, hunting birds at Lake Alagol near Tangli. 41- Taking the
flock for grazing at dawn on an autumn day. Garkaz village, Jargalān. 42- The rich
green grazing land around Qoyjoq and Oqchi villages. Early spring,
south of Khāled Nabi mountains. 43- A view of
the lush forest covered mountains of Turkman Sahra near Kalāleh.
44-45
Washing dishes and taking water from a spring at the "chārvā"
(summer quarter). Nokhorli tribe, Yekkč Soud village. This
" chārvā" comprised of a few mud houses is left uninhabited in
other seasons. 46- Top
Morning has broken, Garkaz village, Jargalān. 46- Bottom
Garkaz village, built by the Garkaz tribe after they migrated to this area
from Russia at the beginning of this century. 47- Top-
There is a long way to go for every drop of water. A "chārvā"
belonging to Garkaz village. 47- Bottom-
Start of winter, Garkaz village Jargalān.
48- A Garkaz
woman milking at the "chārvā " (summer quarter), Garkaz village,
Jargalan. 49- Boiling
milk at day break at the "chārvā" to make dairy products. The
Nokhorli, Yekkč Soud. Dairy products are prepared by the women who
come with the herd from the village to the "chārvā ". 50- A woman
from the Guklān tribe at a Guklān " chārvā". Jargalan.
Yoghurt can be seen hanging in cheesecloth to drain. 51- A Guklan
woman preparing cheese. The modern churn has now replaced the laborious
task of shaking the "mashk". (A mashk is a hide for
churning). Garkaz village, Jargalan.
52-53 A
Jafarby Yomut woman beside her "qara-gotikma" (tent) a simpler form
of the "qara-oy", the dwelling place of the Yomut nomadic herdsmen
near lnchč Borun. A "qara-gotikma" is simpler and
therefore easier to transport than a "qara-oy" (see photograph
58). 54- Top:
Traditional footwear of the Yomut herdsmen made of rawhide. 54- Bottom: A
Yomut shepherd in a "qara-oy" near Tangli. 55- Top: A
Yomut shepherd boy near inchč Borun. 55- Bottom:
An Atabay Yomut- woman inside a "qara gotikma". Yomut women
enjoy more freedom than those of other tribes and their clothing in also of a
simpler nature. Inchč Borun.
56- A Jafarbay
Yomut woman kindling the fire inside a "qara-oy", near
Aq-Qala. 57- Another
view of the interior of a "qara-oy" with hides hanging to be dried
and smoked, and ropes to which heavy weights are attached during a storm to
stabilize the tent. 58- Top: The
framework of an "oy", tent of the cattle raising, migratory tribes
of Central-Asia, now used by the semi migratory, cattle raising Yomuts.
It has a dome-shaped framework composed of four frames called
"tarem" which look like cylinders fixed in the ground, and between
60 to 70 cm high bow-shaped wooden struts called "oq" which are
joined to the frame and then at top to a wooden, wheel-shaped piece called
"tuynuk". (the "oy" is covered with straw mats at the
bottom and felt mats at the top). These joints form a dome-shaped
structure resistant to wind and storms. A double door and its frame
complete this structure. The tent is called "aq-oy" at first
when the mats are white, and then "qara-oy", after the mats turn
black with age. 58- Bottom:
Yomut girls weaving rugs inside a "qara-oy", Qoyjoq village. 59- Top: the
ceiling of an " oy " where the " oqs " are joined to the
"tuynuk". 59- Bottom: A
view of the interior of a "qara-oy" showing Yomut hunting weapons,
tools, and herdsmen's equipment.
60- Metal and
wooden talismans, horse shoes etc, hang inside the entrance of the
"oy" to protect the house and its inhabitants from the evil
eye. 61 - Life
inside a "qara-oy". Yomuts, now inhabiting open plains, used
to live a migratory life based on animal husbandry until the beginning of the
present century. They used to live in Central Asian tents called
"oy", spending the winter time in Gorgan plain where the climate is
mild, and moving to the Balkhan mountains located at the other side of the
Atrak River in the Russian territory by the end of the spring. A few Yomuts
have still preserved their old tradition and migrate from one area to another
on a restricted level. Agri Boqaz. 62- A cotton
field and village houses between Minoodasht and Gonbad-e-Kāvoos. 63- Mechanized
farming around Kalāleh.
64- Yomut
sheepfold near Altin Tokhmāq. 65- Chapoqli
village by the Caspian Sea. 66- The last
Turkman saddle maker with on finished saddles. Tang-e-Turkman village,
Jargalān. 67- Sesame oil
extracting workshop, Garkaz village, JargalAn.
68-69 Plain
of sunflowers near Golli Dāq. 70- Mulberry
leaves supplied from mulberry orchards in the nearby village to feed the
silkworms. Tang-e-Turkman village, Jargalān. 71- Feeding
the silkworms at an early stage of their growth. Garkaz village,
Jargalān.
72- The traditional
method of drawing the silk thread off the cocoons, known locally as
"kildan". Garkaz village. Jargalān. 73- Weaving
"qermezi" ; the traditional silk cloth used to make traditional
clothes of the same name. Nowadays very few people weave silk.
Yekkč soud village, Jargalān. 74- Top- A
sample pattern of felt carpet. 74- Bottom-
Women from the Yomut tribe making a felt carpet called a
"namad". The task need the cooperation of women from related
families. Namads are made in different sizes with decorative
mythological designs. Felt making is a source of income for the
family. 75- Top:
Pattern of a turkman bag. 75- Bottom: A
woman carpet weaver, Garkaz village, Jargalān.
76-77 the
bread reflects the setting sun. A Nokhorli woman baking bread, Karkouli
village, Jargalān. 78- Top:
Nokhorli women reparing the oven. The oven is constructed in the open
ground among the houses and is used by a few related families. Tootli
village, Jargalān. 78-Middle:
Lightning the fire in the oven, Garkaz village, Jargalān. 78-Bottom: A
Tekkč woman carrying home baked bread. Dashtak village. 79- A Nokhorli
woman cleaning her house. Mazārliq village.
80- In their
few moments of leisure, they bathe the children with a little hot
water. Garkaz village. 81- Bathing
children with a little hot water in a village house near Tangli. 82- Nokhor
women carpet weavers at the horizontal loom. Carpet making is one of
the major sources of income among the Turkmans. It is a female task,
and a women's skill elevates her status in her family. Women are
regarded as a vital means of earning a family's living. Marriages are
arranged through deals to have access to a woman's labour. Mazārliq
village. 83- Yomut at
the Monday market Bandar-e-Turkman.
84-85 Bird
hunting on Lake Ālāgol near Tangli. In winter many hunters come here
with their muskets from nearby towns and villages. 86- Waiting to
retrieve the fallen prey. According to a tacit agreement the prey
belongs to the person who picks it up. Lake Ālāgol near Tangli. 87- A bird
hunter at dawn. Lake Ālāgol.
88- A day's
kill. Lake Ālāgol. 89- Hunter's
boats by a Yomut sheep fold. The hunters usually leave their boats with
their relatives and friends between hunts. 90- Fishermen
having breakfast at dawm before a day's sturgeon fishing, near
Āshurādeh. 91- A
fisherman stunning a sturgeon to prevent it from jumping back into the sea
after it has been pulled into the boat. Caspian Sea, near
Āshurādeh.
92-93
Inspecting fixed nets used for catching sturgeon, near the lrano-Turkmensitan
border. 94- Top:
Phallic and ramhorn shaped stones on ancient-graves. A graveyard near
Khāled Nabi Shrine. 94- Middle:
Phallic and ramhorn shaped stones on ancient-graves. A graveyard near
Khāled Nabi Shrine. 94- bottom:
Phallic and ramhorn shaped stones on ancient-graves. A graveyard near
Khāled Nabi Shrine. 95- Top:
Turkman pilgrims on their way to the Khāled Nabi Shrine. This shrine on
the summit of Gukchedāq mountain is the burial place of Khāled Nabi a
religious figure much revered by the Turkmans. 95- Bottom:
The tomb of the shepherd and faithful servant of Khāled Nabi who was buried
at the foot of his master's grave as requested in the holy man's will.
96- Petitions
left at the tomb of a martyr near Qoshč Sou. 97- Top Right:
Skulls of cows hanging to ward off evil spirits and the evil eye. A
farm, Jargalān. 97- Top Left:
Wooden statues of birds of prey erected on ancestral graves near
Gharnāveh. 97- Bottom Right:
Wooden statues of birds of prey erected on ancestral graves near
Gharnāveh. 97- Bottom Left:
Wooden statues of birds of prey erected on ancestral graves near
Gharnāveh. 98- Erjab
Porkhān, the wizard, conducting a ceremony called Porkhān, seeking the help
of his supportive angel to exorcise the evil spirits possessing the
patients. A sword dance accompanied by a melody played on the
"dotar" (a type of musical instrument) completes the ceremony.
This ritual dates back to the early Turkman religions and is a reflection of
their believes. Yeal Cheshmeh near Qarānki Jangal. 99- Local
elders and clergy gathered in front of the. house of the deceased to
sympathize with the mourners, Jargalān.
100- The
interior of a mosque showing the Turkman mythological ramhorn design.
Turkmans are sunni Moslems and their religious leaders who are called
"Ākhouns" mostly undertake the instruction of the students of
theology, besides conducting religious ceremonies. Qabelqā village,
Jargalān. 101-A ramhorn
shaped capital on a wooden column in the porch of a house. Qabelqā
village. Jargalān. 102- Cutting
and drying the meat of a scarificed sheep on Eid-e-Qorbān. Yekkč
Soud village, Jargalān. 103- Making
"qormeh" (preserved meat) for winter use with meat left over from
the Eid-e-Qorbān sacrifice. Jargalān.
104- There is
no other way but to shake sin off one's shoulders. During the three
days Qorbān holiday, all people regardless of their age or sex, ride on
swings towards the heavens to purify themselves of sin. Doydokh
village, Jargalān. 105- Singeing
the head and feet of the sacrificed sheep and preparing them for cooking,
Jargalān. 106- Making
"cholfak" (a kind of pancake) for a feast, Jargalān. 107-
Circumcision of a young Tekkč boy. Wealthy Turkman families
usually hold a party which includes horseracing and wrestling to celebrate
this event.
108-109
The master and the diciple. Ātā Ishān and his follower on their way to the
Feast of scarifice (Eid-e-Qorbān). This great Islamic feast in which an
animal must be sacrificed is held at the end of the Haj. Garkaz village,
Jargalān. 110-
"Saffar-Mohammad-e-Mohammadi" a smuggler from the Tekkč tribe
who spent seventeen years in prison and exile in the Soviet Union charged
with smuggling, now among his relatives in the small village of Doydokh after
crossing the border. 111- Top:
Ashur Mohammad-e-Seis, a horse trainer and a "bakhshi" (dotar
player) from the Alili tribe. 111 - Middle:
A Yomut herdsman near Inchč Borun. 111 - Bottom:
A Nokhorli man. Mazārliq village.
112-
"Through the frame". A girl from the Tekkč tribe,
Doydokh village. 113- A Garkaz
girl wearing girl's costume and ornaments. 114- The face
of a Nokhorli woman wearing a Yashmaq or covering for the mouth and chin.
(The Turkman believe that the breath of a married woman belongs solely to her
husband) Mazārliq village, Jargalān. 115- A Garkaz
woman in traditional costume and ornaments, Jargalān.
116-Khani
Tekkč, one of the last of the Turkman silversmiths. Gonbad-e-Kāvoos. 117- Details
of a "boqow" (a pectoral ornament made of silver and studded
with carnelians weighing approx. 1.5 kg. and measuring 28x25 cm.) 118- Top Right:
Young girl's headdress,"qobbah,Tekkč. 118- Top Left:
Pectoral ornament, "boqow", Tekkč. 118- Middle
Right: Bracelet,"bezelik", Tekkč. 118- Middle
Left: Hair ornament,"athekh", Tekkč. 118- Bottom
Right: Clasp of a woman's coat,"changah", Tekkč. 118- Bottom
Left: Amulet "heykal",' Quran container, Tekkč. 119- Top Right:
Amulet,"tumar" one of a pair, Tekkč. 119- Top Left:
Headdress ornament - "ildirqich". 119- Middle
Right: Hair ornament,"athekh", Tekkč. 119- Middle
Left: Bracelet "bezelik", Tekkč. 119- Bottom
Right: Ornament for plaited hair "qorbaqeli monjooq". 119- Bottom
Left: Clasp of a woman's coat, "changah", Tekkč.
120- Top Right:
The ornamented headdress of Tekkč women. 120- Top Left:
Collar stud, "gol yaqeh". 120- Middle
Right: Tekkč Pectoral ornament. 120- Middle
Left: Headdress ornament, temple pendant, "tenchir" or
earrings, Tekkč. 120- Bottom
Right: Hair ornament, "athekh" ,Tekkč. 120- Bottom
Left: Hair ornament "athekth" ,Tekkč. 121 - The
front of a woman's coat (chapraz) with silver medallions and lozenges. 122- A
Tekkč woman in traditional red silk shift (koynuk) with an embroidered
headdress (kurteh) part of a pectoral ornament can be seen under her Yāshmāq
- Doydokh village, Jargalān. 123- Back
view of traditional costumes worn by Garkaz women, Garkaz village,
Jargalān.
124-125 A
wedding, Jargalān area. Turkman wedding celebrations usually continue
for three days and nights. On the third day if the bridegroom is from a
wealthy family, horseraces and wrestling matches are held. 126- The
bridal procession on its way to the groom's house. Garkaz village,
Jargalān. 127- Once at
the bridegroom's house, flour is poured under the bride's feet and coins
showered on her head, while coins and candy fly into the air among the
guests. Qara Aqai village Jargalān.
128- The
bride surrounded by her relatives enters her future home. Qara Aqaj
village. 129- The
bridal chamber at the groom's house showing the curtain behind which the
bride sits. Qara Aqaj village. 130- Two
newly-wed Guklan brides in their traditional Turkman costumes. Inche,
one of the oldest Turkman villages. 131- Top Right:
Richly embroidered trouser cuffs. 131- Top Left:
A detail of a woman's headrobe (charpi) like the " kurteh", but
heavily embroidered. 131- Bottom
Right: Part of Guklan woman's costume. 131- Bottom
Left: A dotar (tam-dreh), a favourite musical instrument of the Turkmans.
132-133
Preparing food for the wedding. Garkaz village. Jargalan. 134- The
highest board of decision making; at the wedding ceremony. The elders
and the clergy sit around a table cloth decorated with various types of
bread, each having a bowl and a teapot before him. All decisions are
made here. To avoid paying "Shirbaha" (The money given to the
girl's family upon marriage), two girls are exchanged; a 14-year-old boy and
a 13-year-old girl for a 14-year-old girl and a 5-year-old boy. Garkaz
village. 135- The
night of the feast. Men gathered around the fire, sitting on flet mats
on a cold autumn night, breaking the coldness of the night with their songs
accompanied by the" dotar". Karposhli village.
Jargalān.
136- Riders
from villages far and near on their way to take part in a horse race.
Atrak river near Dashtak village. 137- The
Turkman has the love of horse in his blood. The horse is a symbol of an
invading war-like people. It is a reminder of the olden days when they
swept across great deserts, leaving mountains and steppes behind. The
days of the raids are over but the horseraces held for feasts and weddings
are no less exciting. A gathering of the elders, the judges and horse
trainers, discussing the competitors taking part in each horse race.
Dashtak village. 138- Warming
up the horses before the race. Inchč village. 139- A
natural stadium consisting of a plain surrounded by hills where the
horse-races take place. Men and women take their seats separately on
opposite hills. Karposhli village.
140-141 -
An early morning practice to warm up the horses before the race.
Inchč village. 142-Top:
Before the horse races begin felts are spread for the elders (yashuli) and
clergy to sit on. Garkaz village, Jargalān. 142-Bottom:
A Nokhorli elder (yashuli) attentively watching the race. Karposhli
village. Jargalān. 143-Top: A
Guklan man in traditional costume announcing the prizes and prize money
(qatanj) to be given to the winners of the horse race. Karposhli,
argalān. 143- Bottom:
The judges (amin) of the horse race waiting at the winning post to announce
the winners. Karposhli, Jargalān.
144- Riders
on sturdy horses taking part in an endurance race. In this part of the
race the riders circle the track four to eight times. Qara Aqaj
Village, Jargalān. 145- Enjoying
a horse race. Garkaz village, Jargalān. 146-Top: The
saddle and trappings of a horse brought in for the race. 146-BottomFirst
section; two young horses racing along the straight path. Garkaz
village. 147-Top:
After the horse race wrestling begins. The wrestlers are allowed to
hold each other by the belt only. In this way each tries to floor the
other using any of the four approved techniques. Orjanii village near
Kalaleh. 147-Bottom:
The trainer covers the sweating horse with felts and horse blankets to
protect it from the North Wind. The horse continues to sweat under the
warm coverings and thus rids its body of toxins. The trainer checks the
decreasing level of the toxins by tasting the sweat of the horse and removes
the coverings one by one accordingly. This is called sweetening (the
horse sweat ) Karposhli village, Jargalān.
148-149-
"They're off!" Second section' a race using well-trained strong
horses. Inchč village. 150- The
walled village of Qabelqa in winter. (Qabelqa in Turkman means shelter or
gathering in a shelter) The verandah is the only passage connecting the rooms
each occupied by a single family. 151- On route
from one village to another. Jargalān.
152- A view
of several village houses located between Yekkč Soud and
Karposhli. 153- A view
of Karkouli village, Jargalān. 154- An
elderly villager returning from a party, Jargalān. 155- Ata
Ishan the village religious figure and mystic in his study at the Theological
School. Garkaz village.
156- The
interior decor of a house. Bachč-Darreh village. 157- A niche
in a Nokhorli house. Qabelqa village, decorated with triangles believed
to have talismanic power. 158- Top:
Stylized paintings of the sun and ramhorn designs on the walls of village
houses. Jargalān. 158- Middle:
Wall decoration paintings of a house at bacpolad village. At one times, these
paintings were used to save the residence of the house and to repel the
wickedness. 158- Bottom:
Wall of a room in bacpolad village. Ramhorn which is horn of plenty can be
seen evrywhere. 159-Top: The
skull of a cow placed on the roof of a house to protect the house and its
inhabitants from the evil-eye. 159-Middle:
The interior decor of a room in the Nokhorli village of Qabelqa. 159-Bottom:
The porch of a house. Bak Poulad village.
160- The
porch of a house in the Tekkč village of Dashtak. 161- Top:
Ramhorn shaped wooden capitals in Doydokh village villages. 161- Middle:
Ramhorn shaped wooden capitals in Doydokh villages. 161- Bottom:
Ramhorn shaped wooden capitals in Yomuq villages. 162-Top: The
tomb of Abu-al-Ma'ali Qabus Ebn-e-Voshmgir one of the Al-e-Ziar Sultans with
a height of 52 meters. dating from 397 A.H. (circa 1018 A.D.) in the town of
Gonbad-e-Qabus (Kavoos) 162- Bottom:
Gomishan a Turkman town with Russian style wooden houses. 163-Top: The
window of a wooden house. Gomishan. 163-Middle:
The porch of a wooden house in Khajeh-Nafas. Fish can be seen hanging
up to dry. 163-Bottom:
The windows of the deserted Russian Consulate at Gomishan.
164-165
Garkaz village in early winter. 166- A Guklan
woman in Garkaz costume. Jargalān. 167- A Garkaz
woman. Even though she is neither noticed by any one, nor takes any
notice of others, she reacts as if she has been caught naked before the
camera. Garkaz village.
168- Makhtoum
Qoli, the sixth generation descendant of Makhtoum Qoli Faraghi, the much
loved Turkman poet, sitting under a portrait of the poet. Garkaz.
Jargalān. 169- A
Nokhorli man from Yekkč Soud village, Jargalān. 170- A woman
and her daughters. Garkaz village, Jargalān. 171- A
clergyman and his family Tekkč tribe. Doydokh village.
Jargalān.
172-173
On their way to visit relatives. Jargalān. 174- An
elderly Turkman with his grand daughter. Jargalān. 175- Young
girls help run the house from early childhood Gozbāshi village.
176-A young
Yomut girl near Marāveh Tappeh. 177-Some
Turkman believe that if they do not shave their children's head, they will
not grow. Baqloq village. Jargalān. 178-Young
shepherdesses on their way to the village. Jargalān. 179- A Guklan
village in Golidaq district.
180-181
Town dwelling Yomut girls from Gonbad Kavoos at the shrine of Khaled
Nabi. 182- Boys and
girls studying at a five from School Garkaz village. Some Turkman do
not approve of their daughters attending school. 183- A young
girl from a town dwelling Turkman family.
Note: All
Color photoes and text presented here are from the book Turkmans of Iran.
Some other photoes from Turkmensahra Gara Oy (Turkmen Traditional Home) |
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